Eccentric Rear Toe Adjustment Tool Technical BBSAuthor Some people swear by it, but for the life of me I can’t figure out how it works. I don’t recommend adjusting the rear toe without a laser alignment rack. You loosen the bolts and slip the eccentric socket tool over the bolt with the raised tabs on either side and you can then use a wrench on the tool to move the toe and hold it in place while you tighten the other bolts down. That’s kind of what I was thinking, but the “non-drive” end of the tool is circular (not hexagonal) so it couldn’t grip the bolt. I doesn’t need to grip the bolt just ride around the bolt using the bolt head to push carrier side to side.
I’ll have to look it up – maybe I’m confusing it with the E30, or a 5-Series. Here is how I do my alignments. The corner posts are just something I had laying around from anothe r project. The “platforms” are some quickly coobed up wood risers sitting on wheeled dollies to raise the car enough to work under it on a creeper (to make the adjustments) and to allow the suspension to relax (kind of like greased plates. I simply use a pc of plastic hose as a water level with some 1/4″ plywood shims under the tires to level from side to side before undertaking an alignment. The local shops in my area are staffed by morons who cannot be trusted to change tires on a Ford Escort. The rear does have both adjustments available.
Race teams have been string aligning for years. A dead level platform is essential. The problem here is that you may be referencing off the edge of the tires, whereas the alignment rack clips onto the rim. To get the strings equidistant and parallel, set the strings up so that they just clear all four tires then adjust after measuring the distance from the wheel center caps to the strings so that they are equal distance at rears, then the fronts. A year later I slotted the shock tower holes to allow some fine tuning to help with tire wear. The rear control arms have an eccentric type adjuster on the control arm that allows some camber adjustment back there.
I used to experience bad rear tire wear (on the insides), now all four tires wear fairly evenly for the life of them although it is probably not an ideal track setup. The smart camber is indeed good.
I would cut the square down to the size of your rim (15-16-17″) (buy two squares if you have more than one rim size) and then just hold it up to the lip of the rim to take the measurement. I made one of these a year or so back. I used a cheap aluminum “I” beam type level as a mount for the module.
I built one using a brace of bubble gauges on a cut down carpenter’s level (aluminum) .. Here is my DIY suspension adjusting set-up. Sorry chrisp, I guess I have been over in OT a little too much lately. The scissor lift certainly provides the measure of safety one would want, but I would not want a failure, regardless. Tim, I like the idea enough to think about my own version. Zeke, the dollies are the cheapo Harbor Freight style that I picked up cheap on sale.
Initially I intended to build the risers out of square steel tubing, but I was in a hurry and I had the wood and needed to check/adjust alignment that weekend.
I did not feel the need to calculate the strength of the short 2 x 12 platforms here, but I assure you that there were no knots and they will not break. Someday, I may actually weld up a set of permanent risers. If you haven’t looked at it from an engineering perspective yet I would.
Oh yeah, Zeke my floor is fairly level at the points that the dollies are resting (at least side to side). Here’s what happend to me trying to move a VW bus around on dollies. Wow Thom, I bet you blurted out a few choice expletives when that happened. I was afraid to even look at the damage. Now I push the lawn mower on the wood ramps so it can stay upright. Thanks for the great idea. You feel secure under the car using wood ramps. Since this thread has been revived, I feel obligated to post the final pictures of this little project. Turned out, that I would not be able to fit my fingers into the handle to hold it. So I changed it to these chains. Driving up the ramps is easy. So essentially I have 3 chocks in that picture, but only 2 are seen. That picture was 5 minutes before I did my oil change.
With my lowered car (Dinan), and the 4 levels ramp, I still had only about 3″ space between my chest and the car. For anyone reading this thread and considering the stack o’ wood versus the plastic ramps, if you have any basic wood working skills at all, do the stack o’ wood.
Then I received a set of heavy duty plastic ramps (rated high enough for use with my truck) and I threw out the old wood ones. The wooden ramps were nice because you could distinctly feel each level as you went up, so you knew when you were approaching the top. I once lowered the front of the car onto the ramps after being jacked from the center support, and the suspension travel caused the ramps to flex outward.
And speaking of sliding, yes, both types will slide given the right circumstances. With the wooden ramps, the sliding seemed to be hit and miss, depending on how dirty the garage floor was. One plus for the plastic ones is definitely the weight. Anyhow, now that I’ve tried both, I wish I still had the old wooden ones. I hope those 2 x 12’s are at least 12″ O. C. This is how I do it, I’ve found that reverse up the ramp is pretty predictable and the ramps dont hit the rear bumper like they do on the front. You can see I placed some bricks there but if you do this, I’d suggest using a long ramps for the rear so you can place a wheel chock behind the rear wheel (the front of the rear tire is blocked by the ‘stopper” anyway). I have the opposite problem – when using ramps on a smooth concrete garage floor the front wheels just push the ramps forward (plastic rhino ramps) even with rubber stoppers underneath. Your other option is to place a rubber mat (like the floor mat) under the plastic rhino ramps to prevent skidding.
Actually my wood platform for my bike slides just as easily, even with the bike on it. Too funny, I think you are right, a longer ‘top” platform on both ramps would give you room to put chocks without requiring the extra 2×4 stopper which would not fit under the sill. For non-level work like oil changes, the ramps are a snap.